Vis aan de Schelde

With a trip planned to Amsterdam I was pretty unsure where would be good places to try. After searching around on the web I found an article that was published in the Guardian in 2011 featuring 10 of the best “high-end” restaurants in Amsterdam. The list was written by Vicky Hampton who writes the Amsterdam Foodie blog. A few places looked good but a number are closed on Monday lunchtime. The one that had the most appealing menu that was open when I needed it was Vis aan de Schelde (Fish to the Schelde).

Scheldeplein is at the north end of Europa Boulevard on the outskirts of town so a visit to Vis aan de Schelde is the perfect excuse to try out the Amsterdam tram system. The Number 4 tram from Dam Square stops directly opposite the RAI Convention Centre and the restaurant is an easy walk from there. The chef-proprietor is Michiel Deenik and as the name suggests the restaurant focuses on fish dishes.

At least at lunchtime the room is bright and airy. White tiles with black etched fishing floats surround a lobster tank in the wall that divides the bar from the dining room. The room is formal with a stark contrast between the heavy white linen tablecloths, with full settings and the black leather chairs. 

The lunch menu gives a choice of à la carte options or the lunch special that consists of “three light courses.” I go for the lunch special.

The bread on offer is a warm fluffy sourdough and it’s rapidly followed by an amuse bouche of a foam of white fish bouillabaisse. The amuse bouche is superb from the hint of gruyere in the delightfully flavoured foam to the tender shrimp in the base. At this point things are looking really good.

Another taster follows, this time combining smoked Norwegian salmon with coulis of herbs, ham crumbs and a tablet of white asparagus. The meaty, fatty smoked salmon is superb and bursting with flavour. The herb sauce lightens the dish nicely while the hits of salty ham crumbs contrast superbly with the rich fish. Lovely.

The first course proper is a mackerel tartare with soy marshmallow, crispy quinoa, creamed Thai basil, radish salad, avocado and crispy phyllo. The dish only slowly reveals its flavours with the mackerel surprisingly reticent. The soy vinaigrette is a pleasure and the marshmallow a pleasing mix of sweet and sour. The gentle basil cream proves to be another highlight of the dish. Although the dish works well it doesn’t need all of the different components and would be better if it was just a bit simpler.

Throwing too many different flavours at a dish turns out to be even more of an issue with the main course. Grey mullet is combined with fava beans, eggplant caviar with mint, grilled artichokes, tomato risotto with crayfish, tomato hollandaise, broad bean coulis and spinach. The tender fish is lovely with great flavour but there’s way, way too much going on in the plate. I can’t figure out why it’s felt that all of these vegetables are necessary because for me it kills the dish. Using just two or three of those many options could have made this an excellent dish. 

And the theme continues with dessert. Someone in the kitchen has lost sight of the “three light courses” for lunch and dessert is bread and butter pudding with chocolate brownie, vanilla ice cream, caramel, white chocolate crumble and chocolate ice cream. Overall it’s okay but there’s just too much of it. Half the serving would be more reasonable if it really is essential to combine all these components. The surprising highlight is the white chocolate crumble and the brownie with its hint of coffee flavour is much more successful than the bread and butter pudding.

Vis aan de Schelde is a bit of a puzzler. The bread and amuses bouche show a lightness of touch that have me thinking I’ve struck gold. However as the meal progresses I get to the stage with the main course and dessert where I can’t wait to finish the needlessly complex combinations and make my escape. A little bit more self-control in the kitchen and I would happily be singing its praises.

Overall Rating 3.5/5