Flying out of Manchester airport and staying nearby meant looking out for places to eat in the close area. Looking around, Aiden Byrne’s pedigree seemed to suggest that the Church Green in Lymm would be worth a visit, particularly as he’d earned a Michelin star at Adlard’s in Norwich; the scene of one of my wife’s and my favourite meals years ago.
The Church Green opened in 2009 and the daily-changing menu has moved towards meats cooked on the Inka grill and more traditional English dishes. I tend not to order steak in restaurants because I’m far more intrigued by what the kitchen can produce with other less ubiquitous menu items. Going into the restaurant I wasn’t sure how a Michelin-starred chef and fairly traditional menu would combine.
The Church Green opened in 2009 and the daily-changing menu has moved towards meats cooked on the Inka grill and more traditional English dishes. I tend not to order steak in restaurants because I’m far more intrigued by what the kitchen can produce with other less ubiquitous menu items. Going into the restaurant I wasn’t sure how a Michelin-starred chef and fairly traditional menu would combine.
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Onto the food, my starter was crisp pork belly with Lyonnaise potato and fried duck egg. The strip of pork belly had a lovely crisp skin with tender meat. The potatoes were topped with onion marmalade that worked well with the other ingredients. The duck’s egg had well-cooked white and a luscious liquid yolk that just cried to be combined with the pork belly. This was a lovely starter that was just bursting with flavour.
Family summer holidays to Otley in West Riding in the 70s often included a trip to Harry Ramsden’s in Guiseley. In a child’s eyes, eating in Harry Ramsden’s chandeliered main dining room meant a meal consisting of huge plate of battered fish and chips with what seemed like an unending supply of bread and butter. The perfect way to top it off was with raspberryade and two straws.
I was intrigued by the fish and chips option at Church Green. It was billed as deep-fried cod with mushy peas, bread and tartare sauce. I’m not convinced that what worked for Harry Ramsden’s decades ago really flew here. The light batter on the fish had a good flavour where the tangy beer came through. However, the fish itself lacked any real punch. The mushy peas were a tasty pea purée. The buttered white bread triangles would have made Harry happy but overall the dish just seemed lacking. Given the choice, I’d go for fish and chips in the style of the Ship hotel in Allonby any time.
I was intrigued by the fish and chips option at Church Green. It was billed as deep-fried cod with mushy peas, bread and tartare sauce. I’m not convinced that what worked for Harry Ramsden’s decades ago really flew here. The light batter on the fish had a good flavour where the tangy beer came through. However, the fish itself lacked any real punch. The mushy peas were a tasty pea purée. The buttered white bread triangles would have made Harry happy but overall the dish just seemed lacking. Given the choice, I’d go for fish and chips in the style of the Ship hotel in Allonby any time.
I passed on dessert because I had eaten enough by this point.
Overall verdict.
This was a restaurant that puzzled me. Nice atmosphere, friendly staff and the meal began strongly with the starter. However, the seeming focus on comfort food seemed very safe and ultimately pretty underwhelming. Nothing was bad, it just fell short of what I’d hoped for.
Would I revisit The Church Green?
I might. Largely because I didn’t quite get The Church Green and want to figure out why.
Overall Rating - 3/5
Overall verdict.
This was a restaurant that puzzled me. Nice atmosphere, friendly staff and the meal began strongly with the starter. However, the seeming focus on comfort food seemed very safe and ultimately pretty underwhelming. Nothing was bad, it just fell short of what I’d hoped for.
Would I revisit The Church Green?
I might. Largely because I didn’t quite get The Church Green and want to figure out why.
Overall Rating - 3/5
