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Les Fines Gueules

26/2/2012

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If you’ve visiting Paris for the food then one challenge is finding somewhere good that’s open on a Sunday and to a lesser extent Monday. Top of my shortlist was Chatomat but when I visited the restaurant it turned out they were full for the evening. This was hardly surprising because the restaurant is tiny. I had no plan B so ended up googling “Paris Restaurants Sunday” to try and find a last-minute replacement. Paris by Mouth had five recommended Sunday dinner spots on their website. Of those listed, Les Fines Gueules sounded the most appealing so after a quick phone call from Menilmontant Metro station, I was sorted for a place in the second sitting.

Les Fines Gueules is a short walk from the Bourse Metro station in the 1st Arrondisement and occupies two floors on the corner lot of a very elegant stone apartment block. A polished aluminium bar dominates the downstairs dining room and a meat slicer is ready for action behind the bar for anyone who wants to order fresh charcuterie.  Tables took a while to free up so the barman provided some delicious fresh-sliced salami to eat while waiting.
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The menu is written on a chalkboard that has definitely seen better days and it is carried from table to table so that customers can place their orders. The wait staff were very helpful about explaining any dish when translation was needed. 

Although the restaurant had been full there were only three busy tables in the late sitting. All of the customers were British, a young couple, a father and son and me. I ordered my starter and as usual started to scroll through Twitter but it became progressively more difficult to ignore the father and son sat next to me, particularly the Dad. He spoke like a more coherent Rowley Birkin (Fast Show) and there wasn’t a subject that he was happy to talk at length about. The longer he talked the more entertaining it became. Subjects covered included the benefit of flowers in a cow’s diet, Paris’ best butchers, how to make a good Bearnaise sauce, my main course, Richard Branson’s space flights, incompatibility of claustrophobia with space flight, the parties you could have in space, comparison between Keith Richards and a Tasmanian Devil and where to get the best suits (apparently there is a tailor in Naples who makes suits in a material unavailable anywhere else). All in all it was sheer comedy gold.

Amongst all this my starter of velouté de potiron, tranches de magret fumé du tarn was brought to the table. This translated as Pumpkin velouté with sliced smoked duck breast. This simple dish was full of flavour and the smooth soup was perfect for a cool winter evening. The duck provided an additional rich counterbalance and the overall dish was incredibly satisfying. 
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Main course was Cochon du Lait, Tomates Farcies. Two thick tender juicy pork chops in gravy with satisfying crackling on the outside were accompanied by a tomato stuffed with herbed sausage and potato. Again, it was a delicious dish although the distraction of the next door table made it difficult to focus. Both courses followed a theme of quality food cooked simply but to a high standard.

After these two very satisfying dishes, the dessert was disappointing. The Nage de Clementines Aux Raisins turned out to be a simple clementine and grape fruit salad topped with shredded mint. There was nothing particularly wrong with the dish, it was just underwhelming after the previous courses.
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Overall verdict. 
Paris by Mouth came through big time with this recommendation. The food was really good and overall it was a very pleasant experience.

Would I revisit Les Fines Gueules?  
Definitely, although I’d choose dessert a bit more carefully next time. 

Overall Rating - 3.5/5
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