As soon as it was definite that my trip to London was going ahead my top priority (before air tickets & such like) was to figure out when I could get back to Medlar. Since my last visit, it has been rewarding to see the constant stream of positive reviews in all media culminating in the award of their first Michelin star in September. The only slight blip was their exclusion from the Good Food Guide for 2012.

I went for a Sunday lunchtime reservation. The dishes on the menu change regularly but the format of a set price for three courses with occasional surcharges has consistently remained in place from he beginning. Although the duck egg tart and crab raviolo are the signature starters and both are temptingly superb, my plan this time was to explore some of the newer items on the menu.

I’d booked through David O’Connor (co-owner) and although he was away on the day I ended up in the unusual situation of being treated like a VIP starting with a glass of champagne on arrival. I was given additional courses and will highlight where that happened. As I blog more my preference is to stay as anonymous as possible to ensure objectivity about the ordered food.

One of the immediate thoughtful touches is that water comes with lemon segments and a jug of ice so you can add them to your taste.

Breads were a choice between a lovely light focaccia with a pleasantly surprising crispy base and a crusty sourdough. 

First course proper was a bowl of vibrant green leek and potato soup with chanterelles and Autumn truffles. The leek soup had a wonderful flavour and a comforting creamy undertone. The texture provided by the tender potato cubes was enough to give the soup a nice bite. The meaty chanterelles added more substance and a warm earthy flavour. This was a very nice autumnal soup.

My first choice for starter had been the lamb’s tongue and lentil salad with pancetta, kohl rabi and mustard fruits and this was an impressive dish. Warm green lentils mixed with finely diced carrots, onions and chives were capped with thin slices of lamb’s tongue. The tongue had been braised in a mire poix with carrots and onions and had a very subtle but comforting lamb flavour . The pancetta added a welcome smoky, salty hit while the kohl rabi tubes contributed a lovely fresh crunch. The sweet glazed fruits including cherry and apricot had a nice mustard kick that worked well with the meat. I really loved this starter.

Moving on to mains, I finally had my opportunity to have grouse. The roast grouse was served with red wine sauce, leg and liver pate, game chips, bread sauce and a watercress garnish. The wonderful rich breast meat and luxurious red wine jus perked up even more with the spicy bread sauce. The pate made from the leg and offal served on a small piece of toast was the single richest item of food I’ve ever eaten. The crisps seemed incongruous but the fresh crunch they provided also helped recalibrate the palate after the other rich flavours. The tart blackberries helped cut through the richness. This was an excellent but very decadent main.

An unexpected cheese course turned up next. A board of Bernard Antony aged Gruyere was served with quince jam and a generous serving of water biscuits. The cheese was just fantastic with its warm, nutty flavour and was every bit as good as I was led to believe.

For dessert I chose to go with the almond pannacotta with Pedro Ximenez sherry, poached pear and ricciarelli. The sherry mixed with the toasted almond of the pannacotta to give a luxurious  combination of flavours as you dug through the dessert. The poached pear was a nice refreshing accompaniment and the chewy centred ricciarelli biscuits had a subtle almond flavour that was complementary to the whole.

I was also given a portion of the honeycomb ice cream with chocolate tuile. Although simpler in approach than the pannacotta dessert, this was the one that appealed to me the most. The rich veins of honeycomb that rippled through the ice cream were superb as were the honeycomb biscuits that were served on the side. 

I was given a dish of the usual rich truffles but honestly could not manage to eat them.

Overall verdict
Based on the additional treats, I would have been tempted not to write up this meal but it was every bit as good as previous visits. I was very grateful for the extra dishes but my verdict would have been no different without them. The food continues to be outstanding where each dish involves a wonderful blend of flavours where all components completely belong. Front of house were welcoming and sociable all through this visit

Would I revisit Medlar?
This was my third visit and I can’t wait to go back again. I would love to have a restaurant of this quality within easy reach of where I live.

Overall Rating - 4.5/5